Soul, newly born in paradise! Soul, created for my happiness! from you, the immortal, Expected life.
From you, spring blooming, from you, moon dvunedelnaya, from you, my guardian angel, you expect from life.
You shine face and cheerful smile. I do not want to possess the world; I want your sight. You expect from life.
mountain rose, osvezhennaya dew! The chosen favorite of nature! quiet, lurking treasure! you expect from life. *
Georgians drink - and not our, and surprisingly strong. their wines do not tolerate export and soon get, but on the ground they are beautiful. Kakheti and Karabakh are some de Bourgogne. The wine is kept in Marani, huge jugs, buried in the ground. They opened with solemn ceremonies. Recently, Russian dragoon, secretly gap such pitcher, I fell into it and was drowned in the Kakheti wine, how unfortunate * Clarence in a barrel of Malaga.
Tbilisi is located on the banks of the Kura, in the valley, surrounded by rocky mountains. They shelter it from all sides from the winds and, red-hot in the sun, not heated, and heated air is motionless. That is the reason intolerable glows, reigning in Tbilisi, despite, that the city is only just under the 41 th degree of latitude. His very name (Tbilisi-backward *) It means hot city.
Most of the city is built on the Asian way: house low, flat roof. In the northern part of the tower houses of European architecture, and they begin to form around the right area. Bazaar is divided into a plurality of rows; shop full of Turkish and Persian goods, fairly cheap, if we accept the argument in general dearness. Weapons Tiflis dearly prized in the East. * Count Samoilov and B., pass for heroes here, usually tried their new drafts, with one cut through the fluff in two ram or cutting off the head of a bull.
In Tiflis the main part of the population is Armenian: in 1825 year were they here before 2500 families. During the present war their number has multiplied. Georgian families is considered to 1500. Russian do not consider themselves local residents. Military, obedience to duty, living in Georgia, because that they are commanded. Young titular councilors are coming here for the rank asessorskim, so voždelennym *. Those and others look at Georgia as banishment.
Roads tiflisskij, shew, ill. Local terrible fever; they are treated by Mercury, whose use is harmless due glows. Doctor fed him his patients without any conscience. General Sipyagin *, say, died because, that his house-healer, who had come with him from St. Petersburg, frightened reception, proposed there the doctors, and gave thereof to the patient. Local fever similar to the Crimean and Moldovan and are treated equally.
Residents drinking water Kursk, cloudy, but nice. All water sources and wells strongly responds gray. However, the wine is in such common use, that the lack of water would be invisible.
In Tiflis he surprised me cheap money. After moving in a cab across two streets and releasing it in half an hour, I had to pay two silver rubles. At first I thought, he wanted to take advantage of ignorance of the newcomers; but I was told, the price is exactly. Everything else is expensive in proportionality.
We went to a German colony and had dinner there. We drank beer there to do, taste very unpleasant, and we paid a very high price for a very poor dinner. In my restaurant fed me as expensive and bad. General Strekalov *, famous deli, He called me once to dine; sufferers, he carried the dishes on the ranks, and sitting at the table British officers in the general's epaulettes. Servants so hard I portages, I got up from the table hungry. Damn Tiflis deli!
I look forward to my fate permit. Finally I received a note from Rajewski. He wrote to me, so I was in a hurry to Kars, because in a few days, the army had to go further. I left the next day.
I rode, changed horses at the Cossack positions. Around me the earth was scorched by the heat. Georgian villages from afar seemed to me beautiful gardens, but, approaching them, I saw some poor sakel, shaded dusty poplars. The sun is down, but the air was still sultry all:
sultry night!
Star alien!..
The moon shone; all was quiet; my horse trampling one heard in the silence of the night. I went for a long time, without meeting any signs of habitation. Finally I saw a solitary saklia. I began to knock on the door. the owner came out. I asked for water at first in Russian, and then after-Tatar. He did not understand me. amazing carelessness! thirty miles from Tiflis and on the road to Persia and Turkey, he did not know a word nor in Russian, Our in-Tatar.
After spending the night at a Cossack post, at dawn I went further. The road went around the corner and the forest. I met traveling Tatars; among them were some women. They sat on horseback, shrouded in a veil; I could see them only eyes and heels.
I began to climb on Bezobdal, mountain, separating Georgia from ancient Armenia. Wide road, shaded by trees, winds around the mountain. At the top Bezobdala I drove through a small gorge, called, it seems, wolf's gate, and he found himself on the natural border between Georgia. I introduced new mountains, new horizon; below me stretched cereal green fields. I looked again at the scorched Georgia and began to descend the steep decline in fresh mountain plains of Armenia. With indescribable pleasure, I noticed, heat that suddenly fell: the climate was different.
Man with my pack-horses behind me. I was traveling alone in the blooming desert, surrounded by mountains from afar. In the distraction, I drove past the post, where he was to change horses. It took more than six hours, and I began to wonder transition space. I saw the side of a pile of stones, similar to the hut, and I went to him. In fact, I came to the Armenian village. Several women in colorful rags sitting on the flat roof of the underground hut. I explained Koyo-how. One of them went in Saclay, and made me a cheese and milk. After resting for a few minutes, I launched forth on the high bank of the river I saw myself against Gerger fortress. Three flow noise and foam falls from the high bank. I moved across the river. two oxen, harnessed to a cart, We climb the steep road. A few Georgians accompanied the wagon. "Where are you from?"- I asked them. "From Tehran". - "What are you taking?"-" caveman ". - It was the body of a dead Griboyedov, which is transmitted to Tbilisi.
I do not think I've come across has ever our Griboyedov! I broke up with him last year, In Petersburg, before leaving it in Persia. He was sad and had a strange premonition. I would like to reassure him; he told me: "You do not know these people: you will see that it will play knives # ". he believed, that the cause of death will be bloodshed and strife Shah his seventy sons. But the aged Shah still alive, and prophetic words came true Griboyedov. He died at daggers Persians, victim of ignorance and treachery. Mutilated his corpse, Former three days plaything of the mob in Tehran, was recognized only by hand, once a bullet pistol bullet.
I met with Griboyedov 1817 year. His melancholic character, his embittered mind, his kindness, most weaknesses and vices, inevitable companions of mankind, - all of it was unusually attractive. Born with ambition, equal to his talents, He has long been entangled in nets petty needs and uncertainty. The ability of the human state remained without drinking; the poet's talent was not recognized; even his cold and brilliant courage remained some time in the suspected. Several friends know him and have seen the price of a smile of incredulity, this foolish, intolerable smile, when he had occasion to speak of him as an extraordinary man. People believe only glory and do not understand, that between them could be some Napoleon, predvodytelstvovavshyy us not one company of eherskoyu, or other Descartes, not print a single line in the "Moscow Telegraph". However, respect our fame comes, may be, by pride: in the glory comes after all, our voice.
Griboyedov life was darkened by some clouds: consequence ardent passions and powerful circumstances. He felt the need to raschestsya once for all with his young and sharp turns his life. He said goodbye to St. Petersburg and idle scattering, I went to Georgia, where Osem years spent in solitary, tireless classes. His return to Moscow 1824 , it was a coup in his life and the beginning of uninterrupted success. His hand-written comedy: "Woe from Wit" produced indescribable action and suddenly put it together with the first of our poets. Some time later a perfect knowledge of the edge, where the war began, opened his new career; he was appointed envoy. Arriving in Georgia, He married that, I loved ... I do not know anything enviable last years of his turbulent life. same death, befell him in the midst of bold, uneven battle, I did not have anything terrible to Griboyedov, nothing wearisome. It was instantaneous and beautiful.
What a pity, that Griboyedov did not leave their notes! Write his biography would be a matter of his friends; but the wonderful people we disappear, without leaving a trace. We are lazy and incurious ...
In Gerger I met Buturlina *, which the, as I, I went into the army. Buturlin traveled with all kinds of whims. I dined with him, like in St. Petersburg. We have put together travel; but the demon of impatience seized me again. The man asked me for my permission to relax. I went alone, even without a guide. The road was all alone and completely safe.
After moving through the mountain and descend into the valley, shaded by trees, I saw a mineral key, current across the road. Here I met the Armenian priest, who was riding in Ahaltsyk of Erivan. "What's new in Erivan?"- I asked him,. "In Erivan plague, - he answered; - and what heard about Ahaltsyke?"-" In Ahaltsyke plague ", - I answered him. Exchanging Simi good news, we broke up.
I was driving in the middle of fertile cornfields and flowering meadows. Zhatva struilasy, waiting for the sickle. I admired the beautiful land, means fertility has become a proverb in the East. In the evening I arrived in Pernik. There was a Cossack post. The sergeant had predicted a storm and advised me to stay the night, but I'd definitely on the same day to achieve Gumri.
I had to jump through the low mountains, natural border Kara pashalik. The sky was covered with clouds; I hoped, wind, which is amplified by the hour, disperse them. But the rain began to drizzle and was still larger and more. From Pernik to Gumri considered 27 miles. I tightened the straps of my burqa, I put a hood on his cap and ordered himself to Providence.
More than two hours. Rain not stop. Water streams flowed from my heavy with burkas and bashlyk, napitannogo rain. Finally the cold jet his way to me by the tie, and soon the rain soaked me to the skin. The night was dark; Cossack rode ahead, leading the way. We began to climb the mountain. Meanwhile, the rain stopped and the clouds disappeared. Before Gumri was ten miles. Wind, Blowing on the loose, He was so strong, that dried me a quarter of an hour very. I did not think to avoid fever. Finally, I headed for Gumri around midnight. Cossack took me straight to the post. We stopped at the tent, where I was in a hurry to enter. Here I found the Cossacks dvenadtsyat, sleeping next to each other. They gave me a place; I collapsed on the burka, not feeling himself from fatigue. On that day, I went out 75 miles. I slept like a log.
Cossacks woke me at dawn. The first thought was mine: if I am in a fever. but I felt, that the glory of God is willing, health; there was no trace of the disease not only, but fatigue. I went out of the tent into the fresh morning air. the sun rose. On yasnom sky peeled snegovaya, two-headed mountain. "What kind of a mountain?"- I asked, potyahyvayas, and I heard in response: "This Ararat *". How much action sounds! I eagerly looked at the biblical Mount, I saw the ark, It landed on the top of it with the hope of renewal and life, - and lies and dove izletayuschih, symbols of punishment and reconciliation ...
my horse was ready. I went with a guide. The morning was beautiful. The sun was shining. We rode on a wide meadow, through the thick green grass, and watered by the dew drops of rain yesterday. Before us the river shone, through which we had to cross. "That Arpachay", - he told me a Cossack. Arpachay! our borders! It cost Ararat. I rode down to the river with a sense of ineffable. Never before have I seen a strange land. The border was something of a mystery to me; since childhood by my favorite trip was a dream. I then led a long life of an itinerant, wandering on the south, according to the North, and I have never tried to escape from the limits of the vast Russian. I drove into the fun cherished river, and a good horse carried me to the Turkish coast. But this beach was already conquered: I was still in Russia.
To Kars left me more 75 miles. By evening, I was hoping to see our camp. I have never stayed. Halfway, in Armenian village, constructed in the mountains on the banks of the river, instead of dinner I ate the damn chyurek, Armenian bread, baked in the form of cakes mixed with ashes, which is so bemoaned Turkish captives in Darialskom Gorge. Expensive I would have given for a piece of Russian black bread, who was so disgusted with them. I accompanied a young Turk, terrible talker. He chatted all the way in Turkish, not caring, I understood it or not. I strained attention and try to guess it. Seemed, he pobranival Russian and, accustomed to see them all in uniforms, Accepted at me for a foreigner. Towards us came across a Russian officer. He went from our camp and told me, that the army has already come out of Kars. I can not describe my despair: think, I will have to go back to Tbilisi, exhausted in vain in the desert of Armenia, completely killing me. The officer went to his side; Turks began again his monologue; but I was not up to it. I changed the pace to a trot and big evening arrived in the Turkish village, located at 20 miles from Kars.
Dismounted, I wanted to go in the first saklia, but he appeared in the doorway host and pushed me away from the brane. I answered his greeting with whips. Turks started shouting; people gathered. my guide, it seems, I stand up for me. I pointed caravanserai; I entered a large saklia, like a barn; There was no place, where I could spread out their cloaks. I demanded a horse. To me was a Turkish foreman. For all his strange speech I answered one: Verbani at (Give me a horse). The Turks did not agree. Finally I guessed show them the money (where if I must start). The horse was given immediately, and gave me a conductor.
I went through a wide valley, surrounded by mountains. Soon I saw Kars, whitening on one of them. Turk mine pointed me to it, repeating: Kars, Kars! and blew a gallop his horse; I followed him, tormented by anxiety: my fate was to be decided in Kars. Here, I must have known, where our camp is located and whether even me the opportunity to catch up with the army. Meanwhile the sky was covered with clouds and rain came again; but I'm on it I do not care.
We drove in Kars. Driving up to the gate of the wall, I heard the Russian drum: were zoryu. All took me a ticket and went to the commandant. I stood in the rain for half an hour. Finally I missed. I told the conductor to lead me straight to the baths. We drove along the curves and steep streets; horse slipped on a bad roadway Turkish. We stopped at one house, pretty bad appearance. These were the baths. Turks dismounted and began to knock at the door. No one answered. Livmya rain poured down on me. Finally he came from near the house and a young Armenian, Negotiations with my Turk, called me into his, Explain to the rather pure Russian. He led me down a narrow staircase to the second home of his house. In the room, harvested low sofas and shabby carpets, I sat an old woman, his mother. She came to me and kissed my hand. Son told her to spread the fire and cook me dinner. I undressed and sat down before the fire. Youngest brother entered the host, a boy of about seventeen. Both brothers have been in Tiflis and alive in it for several months. They told me, that our troops have made the day before and that our camp is in 25 miles from Kars. I calmed down completely. Soon the old woman made me the lamb with onions, which seemed top of table art. We all went to bed in the same room; I sprawled Opposite the dying fire and went to sleep in a pleasant, hoping to see the next day Count Paskevich camp.
In the morning I went to see the city. The youngest of my hosts took to be my cicerone. Examining and strengthening the citadel, built on the impregnable rock, I did not understand, how we can master the Kars. My Armenian talked to me as best he could hostilities, whom he himself had witnessed. Noticing him hunt for war, I asked him to go with me in the army. He immediately agreed. I sent it to the horses. He came along with an officer, who demanded from me a written order. Judging by the Asian features of his face, I did not think it right for rummaging through my papers and took out a piece of me the first available. the officer, considered it important to, immediately ordered the horses to bring him honor as directed and returned me my paper: It was a message to the Kalmyk, namarannoe me at one of the stations of the Caucasian. Half an hour later I went from Kars, and Artemy (It was the name of my Armenian) already I rode beside me on the Turkish stallion with flexible Curtin dart in his hand, with a dagger in his belt, and raving about Turks and battles.
I drove along the ground, everywhere seeded bread; around the village were visible, but they were empty: residents fled. The road was beautiful and Carr paved - over streams were built stone bridges. Land rose markedly - advanced hills ridge Sagan-lu (ancient Brands) began to appear. It took about two hours; I vzehal on sloping elevation and suddenly saw our camp, Located on the banks of the Kars-tea; a few minutes later I was in a tent Rajewski.
Chapter three
Go through the Sagan-lu. firefight. camp life. Yazeed. Battle with serasker arzrumskim. exploded hut.
I arrived on time. On the same day (13 June) the army received orders to go ahead. Having lunch at the Rajewski, I listened to the young generals, talks about the movement, their prescribed. General Burtsev * otryazhen was left on the big road right Arzrumskoy Opposite the Turkish camp, whereas all the rest of the army was to go right of the parties to bypass the enemy.
In the fifth hour army acted. I went to Nizhny Novgorod Dragoon Regiment, talking with Rajewski, which certainly had not seen for several years. night came; we stayed in the valley, where the whole army had halted. Here I had the honor of being presented to Count Paskevich.
I found a home in front of a graph bivouac fire, surrounded by his staff. He was cheerful and took me gently. Alien martial art, I did not know, that the fate of the campaign was decided at that moment. There I saw our Volhovsky *, dusty from head to toe, overgrown beard, exhausted concerns. But he found time to talk to me like an old friend. Here, I saw Michael and Puschina *, wounded in the last year. He loved and respected as a decent fellow and a brave soldier. Many of my old friends have surrounded me. They changed! how quickly the time goes!
